Ciss Outdoors

This guide focuses on the practical decisions and budget-conscious techniques that helped me convert a Berlingo into a usable micro-camper, from early layout planning through to storage, power, and overall cost.

Everything is grouped by build stage, so you can jump straight to the sections that are most relevant to your current stage, whether that’s planning the layout, building the bed base, organising storage, setting up lighting and power, or keeping costs under control.

1. Preparing the Vehicle
2. Planning and Layout
3. Materials and Construction
4. Bed Base and Cushions
5. Storage Solutions
6. Kitchen Drawer Setup
7. Lighting and Power
8. Tools and Cost
9. Challenges and Tips

For background on why this build took the shape it did, there’s a separate article that looks at the broader lessons from a first micro-camper conversion. And for a wider view on whether a micro setup is right for you in the first place, the micro-camper decision guide steps back from the build details and looks at the bigger picture.

Preparing the Vehicle

I started with a 2012 Citroën Berlingo Multispace MPV. The rear seats and parcel shelf clipped out easily. No permanent changes were made so the van could be returned to normal if needed.

I decided against insulating the van because I wanted to keep the build reversible. That meant the floors and walls stayed as-is before I started building the interior units. I slept in the camper in temperatures down to -9 and was always cosy thanks to using a 4-season sleeping bag. I never regretted my decision not to insulate Bluebell.

Planning and Layout

The layout I chose featured Ottoman-style storage units with a gap running from side door to side door (not quite a walkway, but enough space to move through). This allowed comfortable seating and a bed arrangement that suited my solo trips.

I planned everything carefully on graph paper, measuring the interior down to the millimetre. This upfront planning meant there was very little trial and error once building started, which was important because I had limited materials and budget. Thinking through layout choices also feeds into confidence on the road, particularly when it comes to sleeping safely in a micro-camper.

Materials and Construction

For the interior furniture, I used 12mm plywood. It’s debatable whether it would have been better to use 18mm, but the design of the ottomans meant that there were no large unsupported areas that would bow or warp. I was very happy with using 12mm. I had to buy 2 full 8′ x 4′ sheets new, but I also reused off-cuts from previous projects to save money. I never discard leftover DIY materials; there will always be a future project where they will come in handy.

The Ottomans were built with a mix of screws, brackets, and hinges to allow lift-up lids. These lids form the bed base when closed. The units are completely removable and not fixed to the van; instead, they lock into place by matching the contours of the van interior.

I painted everything using leftover paint. It tied in well with the colour scheme, but that was a coincidence. It was a good quality Farrow & Ball paint, which gave a lovely finish and required few coats.

Bed Base and Cushions

The ottoman lids made the bed base. To fill the gap between the Ottomans behind the driver and passenger seats, I added a separate board that slots into place on a small ledge, creating a flat sleeping surface.

For cushions, I recycled foam from a sofa my parents were discarding. The foam was twice as thick as I needed, so I carefully cut it down to size. This was a lengthy, but cost-effective process. Seating-grade upholstery foam of appropriate thickness can cost hundreds of pounds for the amount I needed, especially if you buy it cut to size.

The cushion covers were made by me and my mum using fabric from local charity shops. Since I bought fabric in pre-cut pieces rather than by the meter, I ended up with just a couple of inches to spare on the tartan fabric. This made cutting stressful, but the tartan’s straight lines provided a useful guide for accurate measuring and cutting.

The covers have a tartan top, beige sides, and a blue underside, with envelope closures and Velcro to allow them to be removable. The key to a nice fit is to make the covers slightly smaller than the relaxed foam. I cut my covers to the same dimension as the foam, so once the seam allowance was taken into consideration, they were really snug. If you have to wrestle with the foam to get it in the cover, you’re on the right track.

Storage Solutions

All storage was inside the Ottomans, which have lift-up lids. One side has brackets that allow the backrest to lift and lock into the van’s existing fittings, converting the ottoman into a seat that looks out the back.

For smaller items, I hung cotton mesh grocery bags from the front seat headrests for easy access. For larger gear, like my paddleboard and camping chairs, I installed roof rails, bars and a roof box.

Kitchen Drawer Setup

The pull-out kitchen drawer runs on heavy-duty locking kitchen drawer runners (sometimes called drawer slides), which were one of the most expensive components.

The drawer holds a double burner camping stove, with a lift-up prep shelf attached to the back that folds down. This doubles as a small table when the drawer is closed. Pots, pans, and cooking equipment are stored under the stove platform inside the drawer.

Lighting and Power

Lighting inside the van is battery or rechargeable-powered. Some lights have magnets on the back so they can be attached anywhere. I also use a head torch for focused light.

I later added an Anker SOLIX C1000 power station that can easily charge devices and run a heated blanket, which made a huge difference for cold-weather trips. It also has an in-built light.

For privacy, I used custom blackout blinds (which were expensive) and later added window tinting. If I’d had more time to spare, I’d have made the blackout blinds myself to save the £140. There are countless YouTube tutorials on how to do it. The tinting was £200 and worth every penny. Curtains behind the front seats block the view into the back. I picked up the material for them from a charity shop again, so cost was minimal.

Tools and Cost

I had free access to a full set of tools including a circular saw, and sewing machine, including various haberdasheries. The build materials cost around £1500 total, including the roof box and drawer runners. This total does not include the power station, which was around £600 when I bought it, but the price fluctuates a lot with offers.

I saved money by reusing materials wherever I could, and obviously, the labour was free. The saving on labour isn’t to be underestimated. It was a team effort and took many weekends and evenings to complete the conversion. Had I been converting the micro-camper solo, it would have taken me months, rather than weeks.

Challenges and Tips

• The hardest part was deciding on a design that worked for me. There are endless options when it comes to layouts. Focus on your own needs, not just popular trends
• Accurate measuring and planning upfront saved me time and wasted materials later
• Don’t be afraid to reuse materials like foam, plywood off-cuts and fabric. They can save a lot of money, but require patience and some craft/DIY skills

Related reading:

A Decision Guide to Building and Using a Micro-Camper

How I Stay Safe Sleeping in My Micro-Camper